COVID-19 Brings Changes to the Way Building Permits are Carried Out

COVID-19 building permits

The COVID-19 situation we've been dealt in 2020 has altered the way life is carried out. One impact is on the way the building permits are handled here in the Sacramento region.

The Process

When you go about changing out your home HVAC system, you have to get a building permit.  This is done in order to get a second set of eyes on the finished project. It serves to verify it was installed according to the California building code.  An inspector typically comes out to your house and walks through the job. He or she checks out the outdoor air conditioner, the electrical panel, the indoor furnace or air handler, and the ductwork in the attic.  I can’t say every inspector does this every time, but it is their prerogative to inspect the job the way they see fit.

But recently, with the onset of COVID-19, the building department shut down entirely during the first few months of the pandemic. They wouldn’t issue our building permits or come out to inspect them.  I can understand the change during the first few months of it all.  But now that society approaches this whole thing in a more informed way, you would think that wearing a mask, gloves, and any other form of personal protective equipment would suffice in making one feel safe in people’s homes so the inspectors can do their job.

We’re Essential Workers

I get it though. Some people aren’t the cleanest, and maintaining a safe environment for other people to come into isn’t a priority.  But, we as essential workers are coming out to homes across the Sacramento area to repair or replace heating and cooling systems.  Doesn’t it seem necessary and almost mandatory that the building inspectors come out to complete their simple 15-minute inspection, as part of completing the building permit process?

In most jurisdictions in our area, the answer is apparently, no.  Now when jobs are done, the inspector won’t come out to verify the safety of the installation for the homeowner.  The company that does the installation must send the installer back out to the house. They must carry around their cell phone to the points of inspection so the inspector can virtually carry out the inspection.  The installer puts the inspector on video phone and points the camera at the areas the inspector tells them to.

The Building Code

California Building Code addresses this in Section 110.5. It is the responsibility of the homeowner or their duly authorized agent to provide the “means and access for the inspection of the work required in the building code.” Previously, that meant as much as providing the ladder to access the attic. Some inspectors don’t even carry ladders with them these days.  So we have to provide them with one.  But that’s a whole other conversation.  This now translates to the contractor being required to return to the house to walk around the home at the direction of the inspector via video “means and access.”

Responsibility for Building Permits

Well, you gotta love it!  Being a contractor and running a business is one of the hardest things I’ve done.  Don’t get me wrong, Melissa, and I love doing it because it’s challenging and rewarding.  This is just another way we have had to adapt to the ever-changing environment that surrounds us.  Some building jurisdictions have completely shut down the permitting and inspections process altogether.  Some have rearranged the way they carry out the process.

Thanks for letting me share another aspect of what we do here at Fox Family Heating and Air.  It is a pleasure to serve you and carry out the process of improving your home comfort.  We’ll see you on the next blog

building codes

 

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How Much Does New Air Conditioning Cost in 2020?

new air conditioning cost in 2020

This spring, a lot of people began wondering, “how much does a new central air conditioning system cost?”

Every January, a nice letter crosses my desk from the manufacturers of all the HVAC systems we use.  They let me know the cost of their equipment will be rising again in 2020.  The cost of new air conditioning systems has been increasing by a few hundred dollars every year.  This is a reliable fact, and there is no chance of those prices going down for obvious reasons.  Let’s review some of the factors affecting new air conditioning costs in 2020.

When it comes to replacing your air conditioning system, people seem to be driven by one of three things:  low prices, good value, or top-of-the-line gear.  When it comes to the overall price range for a new air conditioning system, you should factor in a few things.

AC Upgrades

It’s a lot like buying a new car.  Some people will get the most basic thing that will get them to work, or they’ll seek out the nicer but middle-of-the-road car they’re proud to own, and it’s very reliable.  Others will look for the latest and newest smart car on the market.  In much the same way, the price for a new central air conditioning system in 2020 will run anywhere from $7,000 to $25,000 depending on which contractor you use.  When you bought your new car, you probably got some upgrades.  The seat warmers and self-park feature were a must!  You can get a similar variety of upgrades when choosing your new air conditioning system too, and it doesn’t have to be anything overly lavish, either.

Efficiency Ratings

In 2020, your first consideration when purchasing a new HVAC system should be the efficiency rating.   Finding a company that will give you three or four options, not just one, for your new air conditioner, is important.  You’re limiting yourself if you don’t.

In 2020 you should see options from 14 SEER up to 25 SEER. This SEER rating is like miles per gallon in your car.  That’s a great way to think about it.  The higher the SEER rating, the better and more efficient the equipment will be.  If you chose the 14 SEER or the 25 SEER, you can expect either system to last about 15-25 years.  “Anything after 20 years,” I tell people, “and you’re on borrowed time.”  And that’s fine too because 20 years from now, you’ll probably want that next generation of central air conditioning systems for your home.

A 14 SEER system will cost you anywhere between $7,000 and $16,000 in California, depending on where you live and which contractor you choose.  But a lot of that has to do with the type of installation you want for your new central air conditioning system.  Some people are DIY’ers who thrive on the challenge of replacing their home appliances themselves.  Changing an HVAC system is hard work, but it can be done.

Upgrades

The most popular upgrades after choosing your efficiency are:

  • Dividing your home into two or more “zones”
  • Smart thermostats
  • Wireless thermostats
  • Contactor containment (SureSwitch contactors)
  • Compressor start assist kits
  • Condensate flood switches
  • Air quality products
  • Virtual assistants / smart speakers (Amazon’s Alexa)
  • Insulation blown into attics
  • Whole house fans
  • Surge protectors for furnaces or air conditioners
  • Thicker air filters
  • Ductless mini-splits
  • Compressor sound blankets
  • New higher insulated ductwork

If you ask most people why they get upgrades on their newly purchased vehicle, they’ll say it’s about getting what they want the first time, so they don’t have any regrets down the road.  There’s a lot to be said for that when the time comes to buy a new central air conditioning system.

I suggest finding a contractor that not only offers you the new air conditioning system but many of these upgrades as well.  It’s not uncommon for a company to throw in the upgrades in the price.

An upgrade like a compressor start kit will add years of life to your system without you even knowing it.  This device cuts down the start-up time of a compressor, which increases the lifespan of your AC system by years! Wouldn’t you rather just have that on your system from the start rather than having a technician sell you that part later on down the road?  Of course, some upgrades are too costly to be “thrown in for free,” but little things like that add a lot of value to the cost of a new air conditioning system.

DIY HVAC Installation

Some people thrive on the chance to replace their own appliances.  There’s nothing wrong with that!  Installing HVAC is not rocket science, but there are some licenses and certifications required by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to safely handle the refrigerant that goes into a new HVAC system.  Some people will buy their system online for as low as $2,000 – $12,000.  You can now buy systems and have them delivered to your door.  The purchaser installs the system according to the installation manual, and when it comes to the refrigerant lines, they’ll have a technician come in to do the rest.  One word of warning:  manufacturers do not like to warranty their products when an unlicensed technician installs them.

Air Conditioning Cost for 2020: Price-Only Shoppers – The Most Basic Systems

Some people who can’t or don’t want to install their own system will reach out to a contractor, or some guy on Johns List where they’ll pay someone to install the system.  I know of HVAC contractors and other handymen in California who can get a basic 14 SEER system into your house for as low as $7,000, maybe even less.  Have you ever heard that another company with more employees and a bigger shop will sell a similar system for $16,000?  In 2020 that can happen.

Value-Driven Customers Usually Pick in the Middle

When you have three or four options, the middle options will be where most buyers make their purchase.  They’re looking for something good for their home, but maybe not the absolute best on the market technology-wise.  These “middle options” were the top options years ago.  The technology has been perfected and mainstreamed into quality homes everywhere.  You will find these air conditioning systems in the price range of $10,000 to $20,000, depending on which contractor you choose.

Best of the Best Air Conditioners

Elite customers are looking for the latest in technology and will tolerate the bumps in the road that can come with such technology.  They prefer systems that are whisper quiet and run at ultra-low amps, making their electric bills much lower!  The technology in 2020 that continues to make a splash is the inverter technology of compressors offered in new air conditioners.  Someday these will be mainstream.  But for now, they come at the premium price of $15,000 to $25,000, depending on the contractor.

Depending on Your HVAC Contractor

Will they be there when it counts, down the road?  That’s a big question when it comes to the warranties on your new air conditioning system.  Those warranties won’t matter if they aren’t around to make it right for you.  These companies charge too little to keep a legitimate company going for long.

It’s a game we as contractors always have to play to earn your business. If we price too high, you won’t take us seriously; if we price too low, it only entices the price shoppers.  When you hear me say a 16 SEER system could be between $10,000 and $20,000, it’s best to find a contractor whose price lands in the middle of those two.  Your best value will fall in this range.  That’s why it’s important to get different quotes when you get your new air conditioning system.  You’ll learn that the price for the same 16 SEER system will be somewhere between that ten and 20-thousand-dollar mark.

Good luck with your upcoming purchase decision.  There are some great products you can add to your system to enhance its value for many years.  When it comes to new air conditioning cost in 2020, choose your contractor wisely. Choose someone who is going to be there down the road; someone who has good reviews online.  It really is all about customer service.  HVAC companies should be trying to take care of you not only for the day of the install but after the install.  Maintenance and preventive cleanings are essential.

Thanks so much, and we’ll see you on the next blog!

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Why the HVAC Industry is Thriving During the COVID-19 Pandemic

During the COVID-19 pandemic, many contractors have enjoyed record sales. Why did the HVAC industry thrive while other sectors were so negatively impacted?

 

When COVID 19 hit this year, I’ve got to tell you; I thought our industry, just like so many others, was doomed to an economic downturn.  Small businesses were hit the hardest here in the Sacramento Valley. I can’t tell you how sad I felt for these folks who’ve worked so hard to get where they were in early 2020, only to have the worldwide pandemic ruin their hopes, dreams, and pocketbooks.  So why did the HVAC industry do so well this year when other sectors were hit so hard? That’s what I want to talk about today on the blog.

The pandemic hit Californians in early March.  2020 started better than usual for us, and I was feeling very positive about us meeting our financial goals again this year.  Then, it hit.  The states began shutting down public places.  Players were walking off the court in the middle of NBA basketball games.  These were truly unprecedented actions that today’s population has never seen.

California’s lockdown began on March 19. Fox Family continued to gain revenue through the first two weeks of that month.  As an essential service, because people can die from a lack of regulated, conditioned air in their homes, we were able to keep our staff working.  But the stay at home order during the latter half of March and all of April created a situation where most people found themselves sitting around the house, not doing much.    

Then the Work Began for the HVAC Industry 

May saw more people than ever begin to work on their homes.  Gardening, redoing their concrete sidewalks, inserting pools in their backyards, getting that electrical work done, and many other items popped up on people’s To-Do Lists.  And like every year around that time, people started either getting AC repairs done from the previous season or straight-up changing out their whole system.

Payroll Protection During COVID-19

Not only did Fox Family avoid laying off anyone at our company, but with the payroll protection program, we were able to keep money in their bank accounts so they could pay their bills.  As a business owner, I honestly have great concern for the welfare of my employees.  We even paid a couple of our employees’ rent for the month and would have continued had our business not started up again as it did.

Why did the HVAC Industry see a Rise in Business During COVID-19? 

It all comes down to people being cooped up in their homes for months, not being allowed to go out except for essential needs like groceries.  People who even wanted to go out found there weren’t too many places even open.  So they had more disposable income than in previous years.

Our industry boomed when others were scrambling to find the money to pay their lease at brick and mortar stores—about 30 percent more.  And while many people just got simple repairs done, a massive wave of people started changing out their whole system.

Staying Home

Because people weren’t going on vacation, going out to the movies, and all the other things people do in ordinary life, their money was applied toward fixing up their homes.  As the world started lifting restrictions, another wave of increased COVID cases hit, closing restaurants and retail stores that had just reopened their doors to the public. 

Business usually starts to slow down for us towards the end of August because people see the end of 100-degree temperatures on the horizon.  Many people feel like if they’ve made it this long without AC, they can go a few more weeks without it before nicer weather settles in.  People who have looming repairs on their systems say they’ll hold off until next spring to make their repairs.

Time Will Tell

So, we’ll see how the summer season finishes up. Will people continue to use their discretionary spending money on preparing for the winter months?  Or have they spent the majority of their savings since they haven’t been at work for so long?  These questions will be answered soon enough, but as for us in the HVAC industry, installers and technicians across the US are ready for a few weeks of downtime to recuperate from all the hard work they’ve put in.

Not one contractor I’ve talked to recently failed to see record sales over the last few months.  We’re all grateful to be in that position, too.  A lot of us wait all year for the summer months.  Thankfully, we didn’t see a lack of customers calling on us, as other industries have.  HVAC business owners never take for granted that they’ll stay busy enough to keep the doors open year after year.  It may come easier for some than for others, but early 2020 worried a lot of contractors.

Thanks so much for watching and we’ll see you on the next blog post.

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Good Customer Service or Good Technical Skills: Which is Better to Have?

good customer service

Technical Skills Without Customer Service Can Be a Bad Mix and Vice Versa

Having both good customer service and good technical skills is super important.  But if we had to decide one or the other when it comes to hiring a technician or having a technician come out to your house for service, which one would it be?  I have my own opinion, and that’s what I’m going to share with you today.

Technical skills without customer service can be a bad mix and vice versa.  Is professional customer service needed as much as your need to have a seasoned technician who lacks the social skills to be a lady or gentleman in your home while performing that service? 

Is Good Customer Service Necessary?

Some people think customer service isn’t needed as much in the industrial or commercial sector because those technicians aren’t having to convince or deal with owners of the building right on the spot.  Even if they did, most building owners and landlords aren’t concerned with anything but getting the repair made. They also want it at the lowest expense possible.  They’re not concerned with how old the system is or the quality of the parts. Usually, they want to get as many years as possible out of their one system. To an extreme! I understand, though.  It’s a business decision where quality isn’t as important as function in most cases.

Residential customers, on the other hand, are more connected to their HVAC system.  They spend their hard-earned money on repairs and want their systems to last as long as possible, too.  When those systems get to a certain age, usually 15 to 20 years old, they start thinking about changing out that system because quality and efficiency are much more important to them.  Residential customers also feel more connected to their service technician and the company they represent.  Relationships develop between company and customer.    

Focusing on Customer Service

As our company grows and we are looking for our next technician to hire, this question comes up every time.  Do we employ an experienced tech that might come in with deeply ingrained habits that might not line up with policies and procedures we have at Fox Family?  Experienced techs that have always done it a certain way for years may not be focused on the customer service aspect.  

What About Technical Skills?

On the other hand, should we hire a technician who we know has a great personality and necessary technical skills?  This type of person is someone we can develop and mold into the kind of technician we want representing our company.  It will take months, sometimes even a year, for that tech to get to the point where they can even go out on repair service calls.  But, when it comes to deciding which technician to send into your home, it can be a tough decision.

My point is that some technically skilled people come into a company that may have worked for a shop that didn’t emphasize manners and common courtesies.  I’m referring to things like wearing shoe covers, wiping down attic accesses when they come out of the attic, wearing face masks during COVID-19 in 2020, tucking in their shirts, being clean-shaven, etc.  Things like these can make a difference when it comes to deciding whether or not I want that tech in our customer’s home.

A Better Tactic

A better tactic is to interview the most technically competent people available and, during subsequent interviews before hiring, work to discover the candidate’s collaborative abilities or willingness to learn such skills.

Summary

In talking about the relative importance of technical and people skills, it’s tough to suggest that one is more important than the other.  I read somewhere that an opera is comprised of both words and music. It doesn’t work if either is missing. Similarly, technicians must have both technical and people skills to do their jobs successfully.  Yes, technical skills come first.  But people skills allow us to convince others of our ideas, to collaborate successfully, and to build successful long-term customer and coworker relationships.

Thanks so much for reading this week, and we’ll see you on the next blog.

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Can a MERV 13 Air Filter Harm My HVAC System?

MERV 13 air filter

Filtration standards keep increasing as today’s building and energy codes update their requirements every three years.  The 2019 codes that went into effect on January 1st, 2020, mandate that new construction homes have HVAC systems that use MERV 13 air filters.  What is MERV?  Simply put, it’s the size of the pores in your air filters you change out every three months or so.  

To give you an example, when you go down the aisle where the filters are at the hardware store, you see a relatively wide selection of filters.  Some have a see-through green mesh, some have pleated white paper-like filters, and other premium filters incorporate elements like charcoal to absorb odors, etc.  Typically the more expensive these filters get, the higher the MERV rating because the ability to catch smaller particles increases with more restriction (smaller holes for the air to pass through).

MERV 13 Air Filters Side Effects

So, great, I’ve always wanted my indoor air quality to be better, so thankfully, the requirements for air filters have increased!  There will be fewer particles in the air for my family and me to breathe in.  Yes, you will have that, but what are the side effects that come along with increasing the restrictions through your air filters? 

First, you’re increasing resistance to the airflow to your system, which is trying to throw a certain amount of air to all of your rooms.  That doesn’t sound good. The system will try harder to throw that air into your duct system and on to your room.  That really affects the airflow in your duct system.  It also increases energy usage since the motor delivering the air has to ramp up even more to do its job. 

MERV 13 Air Filters Can Lead to Frozen Cold Coils

Another unintended effect of this lowered airflow is on the refrigeration side.  Your air conditioner has a hot coil outside, the condenser, and a cold coil at the air handler inside.  This cold coil has a specific preferred operating temperature.  That temperature is based on a certain amount of warm air flowing across that coil and the refrigerant running through the copper tubing of that coil.  With a higher MERV filter reducing the airflow through this crucial part of the air conditioning system, the cold coil can eventually freeze up into an ice ball, restricting airflow altogether.  Without elaborating, this causes more expensive problems at the outdoor condenser coil.

A Hot Heat Exchanger and Tubing

In the heating season, the firebox or heat exchanger can overheat so much that it cracks open.  The firebox is a hollow metal cabinet or set of tubes that keep the spent gasses from the flame inside of it.  The heat carried inside the tubes or cabinet stays inside too.  The blower sends air across the hot heat exchanger sending the warmed air into the ducts that lead to your rooms. 

Just like the cold air conditioner coil, the heating season firebox also operates at a set temperature.  If the air moving across it slows down, the cabinet or tubing will heat up too much.  After thousands of times across the lifespan of your system, this process can diminish its lifespan.  It can also increase the chances that occupants of the house are exposed to gasses that are intended to remain inside the hot tubing.  If the tubing has cracks in it, then exposure is likely. 

Check With Your HVAC Expert

The fix to all of this is to make sure you have enough return air to the system.  If we choke the air to the system, we can end up with all kinds of problems.  If you’re going to start using a higher MERV filter, check with your local HVAC company and let them evaluate whether you have enough surface area in your return grilles.  

Check The Boxes

Good luck with your decision to use higher MERV filters in the future.  They certainly aren’t a bad thing.  Reducing the number of dirty particles for the air in your home is a very common request.  It’s just important to make sure the rest of your system is set up to handle the increased restriction the filters create.

Thanks so much for watching and we’ll see you on the next blog post.

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R-454b Will Be the New (New) Refrigerant Starting January 1st, 2023

how to handle a refrigerant leak

In 2010 when I started my venture into the HVAC industry, I was coming in during a time of transition.  Our industry was changing from systems that had R-22 refrigerant circulating through their lines to R-410a.  This new refrigerant has no chlorine in it, which R-22 had.  When chemicals like chlorine rise into the atmosphere in the form of an HVAC system leaking refrigerant, it damages the ozone layer.  This is what we’re talking about today on Fox Family Heating & Air.

The new-new refrigerant coming very soon is R-454b, also known as Opteon XL41. It’s just funny right now.  When I go into people’s homes, and they say the technician was talking about the “new” R-410 refrigerant, in my mind, I already know that 410 will be phased out very soon.  Just like R-22 was phased out. 

Environmentalists found the “new” R-410a has less ozone depletion potential (ODP) since it doesn’t carry chlorine in its composition.  But the global warming potential (GWP) of it was still too high. In fact, the “new” R-410a’s GWP is actually higher than the old R-22!

In response to this, manufacturers have been trying to figure out a better refrigerant to use—one with no ozone depletion potential and less global warming potential.  And to bring you up to speed on these gasses as they’ve changed over the last few decades — only a generation ago, the refrigerant R-12 was commonly used to cool houses before R-22 took its place. Then, R-22 was replaced by the new R-410a as recent as 2010.  Now, 13 years later, R-410a is being replaced by R-32 and R-454b.  All to decrease 1. ozone depletion potential and 2. global warming potential.

The goal is to get the global warming potential of refrigerants below 500.  The potential of these refrigerants is:

Halons were once the holy grail of fire suppression for sensitive items like IT rooms, data centers, museums, and libraries that would otherwise be damaged by sprinkler systems.  But they’re banned now and being replaced by alternative suppression systems.  I give you that information as a reference to the refrigerants used in the HVAC industry. They’re not as bad, but much more refrigerant is released into the atmosphere than fire suppression halons.

Even though R-22 only has an ODP of 0.5 per metric ton, its effect on the ozone layer isn’t suitable for future generations.  And like I said before, while the “new” R-410a has no ODP, it has a little higher global warming potential.

R-454b offers pressures much more similar to R-410a and requires a little bit less of a charge.  R-32 was another option for use as a low GWP refrigerant, but its potential of 675 is higher than 500.  A dip below 500 will likely become the industry standard soon, so it makes sense to choose R-454b now.

New Refrigerant Not Up to Residential Building Code

If we’re going to be using this refrigerant, some things will have to change.  Most importantly, the residential codes that are currently in effect.  Nothing in it allows for the use of A2L (mildly flammable) refrigerants to be used in residential cooling systems.  

Mildly flammable refrigerants can’t be used in existing R-410a and R-22 systems. Compressors must be upgraded.  Systems designed for R-454b will require less of a charge than today’s R-410a systems and will be about 5% more efficient than current refrigerants.  410a systems will need some extra protection and usage standards not used in today’s equipment.  So if people think they’re just going to drop in some XL41 into 410a systems, which do operate at similar pressures, they have some more training to do.

When Will the NEW Refrigerant Be in Use?

The EPA has approved the refrigerant for use in light commercial and residential applications for new equipment.  This is why the major brands are already planning for new equipment in the future to use the “new-new” refrigerant on January 1st, 2023 (which is the date the 2022 California Energy Code begins.)  And if manufacturers have to start making it for California, they’re not going to keep making 410a systems AND 454b systems.  Essentially, when this happens in states like California and Washington, it will happen around the rest of the country too.

New Refrigerant Training Will Be Required

AHRI and ESCO have already created classes that will teach today’s technicians all about the new-new refrigerant.  NATE will also have certification testing available for technicians.  Even though we’ll be using the same types of equipment to handle XL41, they must be approved for use with A2L refrigerants, which use features like fans to dissipate fumes from the electric motors.  For that reason, we need training.

All of this training will cover safety, as well as requirements for proper installation and maintenance of equipment that use A2L refrigerants.

Will R-22 and R-410a Still Be Available to Use?

Will R-22 and R-410a still be available to service existing HVAC equipment?  Absolutely.  But some HVAC companies will use this as an opportunity to convince the unsuspecting customer that R-22 and R-410 are “illegal” to use now, and they can’t repair their existing system. It’s a common tactic I hear from customers about the “new” R-410a.  And shame on the “technicians” that do that.  They give the industry a bad reputation. 

Warehouses will be full of perfectly legal R-22 and other alternative replacements for R-22 until at least 2030.  And 410a will be available for much longer.  The protocols that are in effect to stop global warming are there to phase out the production of new, virgin refrigerant.  Recycled refrigerants and current inventory will be around much longer after they stop making it.

R-32, R-454b, and R-466a have been the leaders as possible replacements for the current ones because they have no ozone depletion potential and much less global warming potential.  It looks like R-454b has emerged as the winner.  Leading manufacturers were forced to decide which refrigerant they were going to use that was also approved by the environmental authorities.

Certification for 454-B

The residential codes that just came into effect on January 1st, 2020, are already established.  Nowhere in the codes is the use of A2L, mildly flammable refrigerants, approved, so some changes will have to be made for the codes beginning January 1st, 2023, for that to happen.  Training will also be made ready for the transition over to 454b, and certification might be mandatory when that happens.

Now you’re up to speed on the upcoming industry change over to the new-new refrigerant. Thanks so much for stopping by. We’ll see you on the next blog post.

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Fox Family Grows Into a New, Larger Location

Fox Family relocates

In 2015 Fox Family Heating and Air started a business.  We worked out of our home.  We took calls on our business cell phone I kept in my pocket.  Our warehouse consisted of a 5-tier shelf to store PVC fittings, copper, capacitors, and other supplies.  I did all the installs, service calls, and maintenance calls myself.  Since day one, I had always wanted to grow as a company. 

By the time we hired Keith and Colin, we needed more warehouse, so we rented a storage space in Rancho Cordova and moved that single set of shelves to the storage space.  First, we rented a 5×10 space, then a 10×10 space.  Melissa and Sasha came on as administrative help but were still working out of the loft upstairs in our house that we converted into an office.

Fox Family relocates
Fox Family relocates
Fox Family relocates
Fox Family relocates

Relocating to a Great Spot

Three years ago, in 2017, we worked with a commercial real estate agent I knew and found a great spot on Sunrise Blvd, a 2000 square foot office/warehouse combo.  It was very exciting.  We had so much room I thought we’d be in the space forever.  I had a couple of shelves and workbench that I had built.  I had the original shelf I was using at my house for the first couple of years.  We bought another shelf as well, to round out the storage space.  The warehouse included a second floor with shelving already built.  The office space had a front lobby and two offices that Melissa and I occupied.  It was super cool having this new setup.

As the next three years went along, summers got busier and busier.  2020 was an outstanding summer full of equipment changeouts and service calls.  It seemed like we were ordering inventory and other supplies several times a week just to keep the techs’ service vans stocked.  The real demand on our warehouse footprint was for equipment storage a few days before the jobs went in.  Two to three, and sometimes four jobs worth of equipment sitting on the floor took up a lot of space, so much so that it was hard to walk around all of it!

A Bigger Warehouse

As our third year of being in the warehouse came to an end, we had the option of renewing our annual lease.  Because Fox Family Heating and Air wants to get bigger and do more business, we decided we needed a bigger warehouse.  A tenant who occupied a 4000 square foot space in the building next door was moving out after 25 years.  It was the perfect opportunity for us to swoop in and take over the lease on the place. 

Whereas our first warehouse had one garage door and a large warehouse floor, our new warehouse has two garage doors and a much bigger floor space.  The warehouse is deeper, because the front office area is wider, so fitting three of us in the new space is easy.  We had enough room to add a fourth desk for a future administrative employee, thanks to Melissa knowing an interior workspace planner who consolidated the space well for us.

Fox Family relocates

Growing Into a New Location

The location of both warehouses is one of my favorite features.  Location, location, location.  With a street front view, thousands of cars and trucks pass by our warehouse daily.  I cannot tell you how many people have said they see our place every time they drive by.  We were smart enough to put a prominent Fox Family Heating and Air sign above our front door, which really helps people see us, too.

As our company has grown, we’ve gone from working out of our house to having a 4000 square foot warehouse/office complex and two garage doors for access.  I knew Fox Family was going to grow.  The rate of our growth has been perfect too.  We have been able to keep all our staff for years and bring them over to the new warehouse.  And I’ve managed to bring along that first set of shelves from the bedroom in our house.

Thanks for stopping by, and we’ll see you on the next blog post!

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How Does a Gas Furnace Work?

Easy Guide to gas furnace troubleshooting

 

Understanding How a Gas Furnace Works and the Sequence of Operation

Hey guys, how are you doing?  Today I’m going to describe for you the sequence of events that needs to happen for your furnace to start blowing warm air into your house. We’ll start at the thermostat and go all the way to the blower turning on, forcing air into the rooms of your home. Furnace troubleshooting is the topic coming up today on Fox Family Heating and Air.

Furnace Troubleshooting Safety

First, I want to give fair warning to anyone watching this that isn’t already an experienced technician in the HVAC industry.  This furnace troubleshooting video is for educational purposes only.  Fox Family Heating and Air does not recommend anyone other than a professional start opening up the furnace to try to diagnose the failure going on with your system.

There are high and low voltages that can shock a person.  There are also lots of moving parts that can damage body parts—namely, hands and fingers.  The furnace also produces hot surfaces within the furnace compartments and around the housing, potentially causing severe burns.  An actual flame produced by the ignition and startup of a gas furnace can cause severe burns and damage to a person or property.

When your house reaches a point where the heat needs to come on to keep you comfortable, a series of components work in a specific order to produce that heat.

The Thermostat

The thermostat is the first part of the sequence that engages, making the furnace work. There’s 24-volt power at the R terminal of the stat already.  Within the workings of the thermostat, 24 volts closes a switch at the W terminal.  That signal is sent to the control board back at the furnace.

The Furnace Control Board

The control board is a printed circuit board with various switches, resistors, and terminals that act as the quarterback of the heating system.  It calls the plays as they need to happen.

Low Voltage Wires

The control board has a terminal block with screws on it, with a set of thin low voltage wires coming from the thermostat.  Typically, the colors of these wires are red, yellow, white, green, and blue.  The wires are going to R (red), Y (cooling), white (heat), green (blower motor), and blue (common).

Note: the wire colors don’t matter here. They’re still copper on the inside of the sheathing.  So if we use a brown wire for R at the control board, brown needs to be hooked up to R at the thermostat.

The Inducer Motor

Once the control board receives the thermostat signal to turn the heat on, it tells the inducer motor to come on.  The inducer motor is a major component that removes the carbon monoxide from the flame of the gas furnace.  It draws the spent gasses into the metal or PVC flue pipe, which transfers those fumes from the furnace to the atmosphere through the roofline.  You may have seen the metal pipe sticking out of the roof of your house in the winter, exhausting steam into the air. That’s the exhaust we’re talking about here.

The Pressure Switch

This safety device proves that the inducer motor is on and doing its job properly.  If it’s not, the sequence shuts down and retries again.  This pressure switch is actually measuring the suction the inducer motor is producing and sends a signal back to the board, letting it know that startup is working so far.

Roll Out and High Limit and Pressure Switches

Meanwhile, other low voltage safety switches are sending a signal of all-clear back to the board.  There are a couple of “roll-out” switches and a high-temperature limit switch that must confirm to the control board all is well there, too.  The wires leading to the roll-out, high limit, and pressure switches are usually all wired in the same series circuit with each other as a safety control.  If any of these safety switches sense anything wrong with the heating system’s startup, the sequence stops, and retries.

The Ignition Sequence

Next, three components engage in lighting the flame and proving that it is lit. When the pressure switches and other safeties tell the control board all is well, the board starts the ignition sequence.  First, the board sends a signal to the ignitor.  This could be a hot surface ignitor that glows orange or a spark ignitor, which produces an arc between two metal forks lasting for several seconds.  (My blog post and video discussing why hot surface ignitors fail might be of use for you, too.)

Whether the ignitor glows or sparks or not, the next component, 24 volts, is sent to the gas valve, which opens the diaphragm inside of it. It opens, allowing natural or propane gas to flow on to through the metal burner assembly.

The Heat Exchanger

The gas now flowing through multiple orifices in the burner assembly reaches the ignitor, causing a flame to ignite and burn in a controlled fashion straight into the firebox or heat exchanger.  For the purposes of this post, we’ll call it the heat exchanger.

Crossover channels within the burner assembly allow the gas to flow from the first burner to the last one, where the flame pours over a thin metal safety rod called the flame sensor.  The flame meeting the rod creates a millivolt DC signal to the control board that allows the gas valve to remain open.  No flame being sensed means gas is flowing uncontrolled throughout the furnace cabinet, which is not good.

At this point, we have power, a good thermostat, a functioning inducer motor, ignition, flame, and flame sensor to verify it.

A delay now occurs to allow the heat exchanger to warm up so cold air isn’t sent through the ducts and into the air.  The heat exchanger is a hollow metal box with individual chambers.  The flame pours into each chamber, warming the metal to an extreme temperature.

Once hot enough, the air that flows over and around the metal box warms quickly from room temperature to about 100 to 140 degrees.  The temperature is set by the manufacturer and must be closely adhered to.  This will keep the system operating safely and to proper specs.

The Blower Startup

After this delay completes, the blower starts up, sending forced room temperature air over the correct speed of the metal heat exchanger.  If the air is sent over too fast, the air entering the room won’t be warm enough.  Too slow of air or not enough air and the system gets too hot.  Too hot means the high-temperature limit we discussed earlier will open, telling the control board something’s not right. So, this blower motor has to be dialed in just right.

Furnace Troubleshooting Tips

Here are some things that can happen when the furnace isn’t starting up correctly.  The following troubleshooting tips are not all-inclusive and are not to be taken as scripture that what is going with the furnace you’re working on is the problem.  These are general problems only.

No power to the board – If the unit is plugged in correctly and the breaker at the main panel is in the on position, there should be power to the furnace control board.  A transformer can fail between the outlet and the control board, and they can and do regularly.  The board with proper power can send the high and low voltage signals it needs to be the quarterback and run the plays.

Power, thermostat, no inducer motor – Low voltage power is sent from the control board to the R terminal at the thermostat.  Assuming you have 24 volts there, the thermostat closes the W switch, which now has 24 volts applied to it.  If the 24-volt signal is getting back to the control board’s W terminal, the control board will send the high voltage signal to the inducer motor.  If voltage is getting to the inducer motor but it doesn’t run, you likely have a bad inducer motor or capacitor for the inducer motor if it has one.  If you’re not getting voltage to the inducer motor from the board, you have a bad board or faulty wiring connection between the two.

Power, thermostat, inducer, no ignition – If the inducer motor is running, the ignitor should start glowing or sparking.  The gas valve should open, allowing the gas to flow, the gas flame should crossover to the other burners in line, and a signal should be received at the flame sensor telling the board everything is good to go.

As with many components in furnace troubleshooting, if the part is getting power but not operating, it’s likely failed.  If it’s not getting power from the control board, it’s likely a bad board.  I have a great video on why control boards fail for more information.

Power, thermostat, inducer, ignition, flame, sensor, but no blower – If everything works as it’s supposed to, except the blower motor hasn’t turned on after the flame ignited after about a minute or so, something is going on there.  If the motor is getting power but not working, the motor or its capacitor may have failed.  If the motor is not receiving power from the board, the board is likely bad.  Not all blower motors have capacitors, either.  This is especially true for systems made in 2020 or later.

Power thermostat, inducer, ignition, flame, sensor, blower, shuts down on high limit or roll-out – Lastly, if the blower motor comes on and the system starts heating, but after a few minutes or even several minutes the system shuts down, the high-temperature limit switch may have opened causing the system to retry again, after the heat exchanger cools off.  If the chamber that houses the heat exchanger gets too hot, this high limit switch will shut down the system.

So What Causes a Shutdown?

First, we have to check that the blower speed settings are correct.  Next, the air filter could be dirty, ductwork could be too small or even collapsed, or the evaporator could be clogged with dirt. (Check out one of my most popular videos that shows what kind of problems a dirty evaporator coil can create.)

All of these items have one thing in common:  not enough air flowing over the heat exchanger.  This causes the inside temperature of the furnace to go over the recommended setting established by the manufacturer.

Although many things can go wrong with the gas furnace, sometimes in combination with each other.  Not much else can go wrong unless something in this sequence goes wrong.  I sure hope this answers some questions you have about troubleshooting a gas furnace.  Be safe and use your head out there. Don’t get in over your head if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Thanks so much for stopping by, and we’ll see you next time!

Don’t miss our videos related to this topic:

 

Troubleshooting a Furnace Pressure Switch: 5 Easy Things to Check

Troubleshooting a Furnace Pressure Switch

Today we’re going to talk about troubleshooting a furnace pressure switch.  I want to expand on our recent gas furnace troubleshooting series by going into each part of a furnace’s operation sequence.  I’ll fill you in on what the pressure switch does and why it’s important.  And to wrap things up, I’ll give you five easy things to check when you’re troubleshooting a furnace pressure switch.  That’s coming up here on the Fox Family Heating & Air Blog.

First, I want to give fair warning to anyone watching this that is not already an experienced technician in the HVAC industry.  This video is for educational purposes only.  Fox Family Heating & Air does not recommend anyone other than a professional to start opening the furnace up and trying to diagnose the failure going on with your system. 

There are high and low voltages that can shock a person.  There are also lots of moving components that can damage body parts—namely, hands and fingers.  The furnace also produces hot surfaces within the furnace compartments and around the housing, which can cause severe burns.  An actual flame produced by the ignition and start-up of a gas furnace can cause severe burns and damage to a person or property.

The Furnace Sequence of Events

First, as a technician, you must know the sequence of events for a gas furnace to start properly. It’s very straightforward, and you should have this memorized before you can even consider being qualified to troubleshoot.

  1. Power to the furnace control board
  2. Thermostat signals the call for heat
  3. Inducer motor kicks on
  4. Pressure switch proves the inducer operates correctly
  5. Ignitor activates
  6. Gas valve energizes
  7. Flame pours across burners
  8. Flame sensor proves all burners are lit
  9. The blower forces air through the ducts

First, the Inducer Motor Starts

When a furnace begins a new cycle, the inducer motor is the first thing you should see kick on.  120 volts is applied through the wires coming from the control board.  This starts the inducer motor for up to 60 seconds before anything else even happens. It’s a safety feature that creates a negative pressure or draft which purges the heat exchanger of any poisonous gasses, namely the byproducts of combustion.  It makes the air inside the hollow tubes of the heat exchanger cleaner when the flame kicks on. When we have cleaner air inside the heat exchanger at the time of combustion, the furnace’s efficiency increases.

Next Up, the Furnace Pressure Switch Activates

Next, a safety device called a pressure switch activates when the diaphragm inside it recognizes the inducer motor’s suction or purging action.  The pressure switch is a normally open switch that closes upon the manufacturer’s specifications for required negative pressure.

If the inducer turns on and is working normally, the furnace pressure switch should activate. There’s no time lag on this either.  The inducer motor creates this draft quickly.  Within 5 to 7 seconds in most cases – and the rest of the furnace starts up from there.

If the pressure switch doesn’t activate, the furnace will then shut down, wait a bit, and try again.  If the pressure switch doesn’t close after 3 to 5 tries, the control board will stop sending voltage to the inducer motor, essentially locking it out from attempting it anymore.

You can tell the system is on some sort of safety lockout when the furnace’s fan (or blower) pushes room temperature air through the ducts and into your rooms.   No one likes cool air blowing into their house when it’s heating season, so this happens to alert the occupant that the system isn’t working right, and they should call an HVAC company to come out and troubleshoot the system.

How to Troubleshoot a Furnace Pressure Switch

Let’s assume the inducer motor is running correctly. But the pressure switch doesn’t seem to be closing.  Using your meter, you can trace the 24 volts coming from the control board, through the safeties, and on to the pressure switch.  Place one lead on ground or a solid piece of metal attached to the furnace.  Place the other on the incoming terminal of the switch.  If you have 24 volts on the incoming terminal but not at the terminal leaving the switch, you can assume the pressure switch has not closed. 

Another way of doing this is by testing with your leads across the two terminals.  When the pressure switch is open, your meter will read 24 volts. When the switch closes, you’ll read 0 volts.

Remember, the pressure switch doesn’t close until the inducer motor comes on and provides the necessary suction for the pressure switch to close. The required suction is listed on the pressure switch.

Furnace Pressure Switch Not Closing

When we’re troubleshooting a furnace pressure switch, we can do a few things.  We can take our manometer and make sure the inducer motor is creating the vacuum by hooking up the meter’s hose directly to the collection chamber that the pressure switch tubing is connected.  Take that pressure switch hose off and put your manometer’s hose on the same port.

Once you put the hose on and start the system up, the inducer comes on, and the manometer should start reading the induced draft as it begins to rise.  This number on the meter needs to be greater than the number on the pressure switch.  For example, suppose you’re testing a pressure switch that closes at -0.7 inches water column. In that case, the suction reading on the meter should be around -1″ wc.  It could be less, it could be more, but it can’t be less than the number on the pressure switch.  Meaning, if you’re reading -0.4″ wc, something is causing a low pressure reading. 

Five Easy Things to Check

Let’s check out some of the things that could be going on here. Some of the more common reasons I’ve seen furnace pressure switches either fail or not close to allow the rest of the system fire up are:

  1. A clogged port on the collection chamber to the pressure switch
  2. An obstruction in the flue
  3. A diaphragm that’s ruptured or stuck
  4. The pressure switch hose is damaged
  5. The pressure switch hose has water in it

1. A clogged port on the collection chamber to the pressure switch

On the collection chamber, check to see if the port itself is clear of any calcium deposits, dirt, or other debris that would prevent air from flowing through the port.  If there is, take a small wire — like some thermostat wire — and clean that port out.  Whatever the substance is, it should be brittle enough to be scraped off, allowing the port to become clear.

2. An obstruction in the flue pipe

Remember, the inducer motor causes a draft to allow the gasses to be drawn out of the heat exchanger and into the flue pipe where it terminates outside the building—usually the roof.  I have found that bees, wasps, and birds like to build their nests in and around the flue pipe. It’s not likely to happen during the winter, but for sure can happen over the summer.  So, if the season is early and the furnace hasn’t been run yet, it’s good to check at the roof vent. It’s also not uncommon to see that the nest (or the bird) has fallen all the way down to the base of the pipe, where it meets the furnace. 

3. A diaphragm that’s ruptured or stuck

Commonly, the pressure switch fails because the diaphragm inside the casing has become stuck or it has ruptured.  Ruptured diaphragms can sometimes make a flapping noise.  Stuck diaphragms just won’t budge on the required draft.  Sometimes a little tap with your finger on the flat part of the casing will free the stuck part, and that’s great!  But your switch is on borrowed time, and nine times out of 10, the switch will fail again. If I tell you it will fail tomorrow, it will last for years.  If I tell you it will last for years, it’ll fail tomorrow.  I recommend trying to convince the customer to replace the pressure switch now, so there are no surprises.

One way to see if the pressure switch is stuck open or closed is to breathe lightly into the hose leading to the switch. You’ll hear the diaphragm open and close.  It doesn’t mean the switch will work properly, but it gives you more information to troubleshoot a furnace pressure switch.

Because pressure switches are almost impossible to rebuild, a new switch should be ordered.

4. A pressure switch hose is damaged

There have been diagnostic service calls that I’ve been on where I could tell the port was clean, the flue pipe was clear, the inducer motor was pulling a proper draft, and the diaphragm was functional.  But, the pressure switch would still not send 24 volts across to the other terminal.  Is the hose itself in good condition?  Rats like to chew these hoses up and leave holes in them. Other hoses can become brittle and crack.  Keep some extra tubing in your service van for cases like this.

5. A pressure switch hose has water in it

Another possibility is that water could be stuck inside the tubing to the pressure switch.   Condensing furnaces send the flue gasses up the pipe, but latent heat will turn that gas into moisture that flows back down the flue pipe and into the inducer motor assembly.  Remember that naturally flowing water flows downward.  If there is a low spot in the hose leading to the pressure switch, you’ll find it won’t close.  Try draining the hose by unplugging it from the port.  Just be careful; there can be a lot of water in the hose so maybe have a bucket handy. 

Installing a Furnace Pressure Switch

During the pressure switch installation, you want to make sure it’s mounted in the correct position.  The pressure switch you took out was in a vertical position for a reason.  Diaphragms don’t activate as easily when they must fight gravity.  I once replaced a pressure switch with a universal and mounted it horizontally, parallel with the ground, and the switch failed a few days later.  Of course, it didn’t happen when I tested it the day I installed it, but another tech had to come out and fix the problem a few days later.

I could have avoided this had I read the section in the installation instructions that said not to mount it in the horizontal position.  I never did that again!

OEM switches will usually just screw right back into their old spot, but universals sometimes need to be creatively mounted. You may need to use a longer hose to get to the switch—another good reason to have an extra hose on your van.  And make sure there are no dips in the hose, so water doesn’t accumulate, causing the switch to fail again in a couple of days.

Recap

So, just to recap.  When a furnace begins a new cycle, the inducer motor is the first thing you should see kick on. A safety device called a pressure switch activates when the diaphragm inside of it recognizes the suction or purging action of the inducer motor.  The pressure switch is a normally open switch that closes upon the manufacturer’s specification’s required negative pressure.

If the pressure switch closes normally, the rest of the furnace sequence of operation will continue.  If the pressure switch won’t close, the system will go into safety mode, try a couple more times, and eventually just start blowing cold air in your room, letting you know something is wrong with your furnace.

Be patient and check the things we went over today before condemning a pressure switch.  It could be one of a few things.

Thanks so much for stopping by, and we’ll see you on the blog next time.

Don’t miss our video series related to this topic:

Troubleshooting a Furnace Gas Valve

Troubleshooting A Furnace Gas Value

10 Easy Things to Check When Troubleshooting a Furnace Gas Valve

Hey guys, today we’re going to talk about troubleshooting a furnace gas valve.   I wanted to expand on our recent gas furnace troubleshooting series by going into each part of a furnace sequence of operation.  I’ll describe what the gas valve does and why it’s important.  And towards the end, I’ll give you ten things to check when you’re troubleshooting a furnace gas valve.  That’s coming up here on Fox Family Heating & Air.

The Furnace Sequence of Events

First, as a technician, you have to know the sequence of events that occurs for a gas furnace to start up properly. It’s straightforward, and you should have this memorized before you can even consider being qualified for troubleshooting a furnace gas valve.

  1. Power to the furnace control board
  2. Thermostat signals the call for heat
  3. Inducer motor kicks on
  4. Pressure switch proves the inducer operates correctly
  5. Ignitor activates
  6. Gas valve energizes
  7. Flame pours across burners
  8. Flame sensor proves all burners are lit
  9. The blower forces air through the ducts

First, the Inducer Motor Starts

When a furnace begins a new cycle, the inducer motor is the first thing you should see kick on.  One hundred twenty volts are applied through the wires coming from the control board.  This starts the inducer motor for up to 60 seconds before anything else even happens.

Next, a safety device called a pressure switch activates when the diaphragm inside it recognizes the inducer motor’s suction or purging action. 

When the “all clear” signal arrives at the control board, high voltage is sent to the ignitor – be it a hot surface ignitor or a spark ignitor.  The hot or sparking ignitor stands in the way of the gas that is getting ready to pour over it. 

This is Where the Gas Valve Comes Into Play

Modern gas valves typically have a printed circuit board in them that receive a 24-volt signal to activate the valve inside of it.  Remember the video I did on printed circuit boards?  If not, I’ll attach it below so you can brush up on what they are and the things that can go wrong with them.

This sequence will happen in three stages – and even if one step of this doesn’t perform, each part is still going to do its thing sequentially once the board gives the signal.

So, after the board senses the pressure switch and inducer motor are working:

  1. 120 volts is given to the ignitor (on some package units, it’s 240 volts.)
  2. 24 volts is given to the gas valve.
  3. The flame sensor starts detecting if there is a flame or not.

The ignitor is supposed to come on for a set amount of time: 30 to 60 seconds. (See our video on ignitors for an in-depth explanation of this topic.)

Next, the gas valve opens.  The gas coming from the utility company or the propane tank in the back yard is free to flow on to the ignitor.  That gas valve is what’s regulating the flow of the gas.

The flame sensor senses whether the flame is correctly burning.  At the opposite end of the burner assembly, the flame sensor also stands in the way of the flame.  The rod, which should be cleaned annually, by the way, will heat up and send a millivolt signal down to its ceramic base and on to the control board.

Only a certain amount of gas can be allowed to pass through the manifold and on to the burners.  The manufacturer of the furnace determines what that will be.  It is pretty standard, though—about 3.5″ water columns (wc).  The natural gas pressure coming from the street is somewhere around 7″-10″ wc, but the gas valve itself specifically allows that 3.5″ wc onto the burners. 

There are some situations and equipment where I’ve been told to bring the outlet pressure down to 3.25″ wc.  But I only did it on the advice from the technical support rep from that equipment.  Specifically, it was Ruud equipment.  The rollouts were getting too hot because the hood covering the flame would trap the heat and make the safety open.  Modifying the hood and adjusting the gas pressures were recommended to us, which seemed to fix it.

Furnaces differ, so please check your furnace installation and service guide for your system’s specifics.  This is something you don’t want to get wrong.

The gas valve is adjustable.  And usually, the installer of the equipment will dial in the outlet pressures on start-up.  Because the gas valve manufacturer – Emerson, White-Rodgers, Honeywell, and other valves makers will usually have it pre-set to that 3.5″ wc, some installers forget to do this.  We can’t assume the valve is correctly adjusted each time. That’s why you can have issues with your furnace related to your gas valve – because it wasn’t set up right by the installer during its first use.

Troubleshooting a Furnace Gas Valve

If 24 volts is coming from the board to the gas valve terminals and you don’t hear that little clicking noise the internal valve makes, you could have a bad gas valve.  To double-check, take the leads off to the gas valve and check there.  Got 24 volts?  Then something downstream of that 24 volts is not working. 

What’s the next thing that’s supposed to be working?  The printed circuit board or electric solenoid attached to the gas valve isn’t telling the valve to open, OR that gas valve board IS telling it to open, but the valve is stuck somehow.

If something is wrong with the internal components of the gas valve, it should be replaced. The gas valve cannot be repaired in the field. Only the gas valve manufacturer or someone certified by the gas valve manufacturer can make these repairs.

Some people will literally take a wrench and bang on the gas valve to get it to open up.  This is extremely dangerous.  Gas is nothing to toy with.  If you decide to try this and it kicks on, please replace the gas valve now rather than later. 

If we try to fix these ourselves and something goes wrong with the gas valve, and it somehow caught the house on fire, the investigation could come back to the furnace.  If they wanted to know who last worked on it and what was done to it, the gas valve manufacturer could claim innocence, and the homeowner’s insurance could deny the customer’s claim.  I know that sounds a little drastic, but it could happen.  Why put yourself in that situation?

I see people try to fix control boards, ignitors, and such, but we shouldn’t try to fix gas valves ourselves with such a sensitive instrument.

Here are ten things we can check when we think we have a bad gas valve before condemning it:

  1. Check the wires to the gas valve.  Are they cracked or frayed?  That could mean a couple of things.  You have a REALY old furnace, or something could have scorched the wires—things like that.  Replace the wire and continue your diagnostic.
  2. Check the coil at the gas valve.  If you check the coil’s resistance by putting your two-meter leads on each terminal and you get a reading of OL, you have a bad coil. There are more complicated things here but let’s keep this straightforward. 
  3. The gas coming into the valve should be at utility line standards.  It’s around 7″-10″ wc for natural gas in my neck of the world. There’s a port on the inlet side to check it.
  4. You may have plugged burner orifices.  A furnace that’s been off all summer can be the victim of a spider spinning a web inside the burner orifices.  Now, that’s a tiny spider, I know, but I promise, it happens!  Take a small piece of thermostat wire and gently poke inside the holes of the orifices attached to the manifold and try to fire up the system again.
  5. The flame might be coming on for a few seconds but then shutting off.  Is there a dropout of voltage or gas pressure to the gas valve?  That’s something to check for sure.  And you can do that by putting a “T” fitting in line with the hose to connect to your manometer.  Check the inlet and the outlet side to see if the pressure is dropping on either side of the valve. 
  6. Another reason the flame could drop out after only a few seconds of burning is the flame sensor.  If the sensor doesn’t detect the flame, the control board will signal the gas valve to shut down.
  7. If the flame does anything but shoot directly into the hollow metal heat exchanger, a safety can trip.  One safety trip is the rollout switch.  Sometimes you’ll get a little part of the flame that drifts off to the left or right, sending the switch off.  That doesn’t mean you should remove the switch.  It means you need to fix the problem.  Clean the end of the burner assembly nearest the heat exchanger.  Rust will sometimes build up on the crossover channels.  Use a wire brush to clean and see if that solves it.  Then place the burner correctly into the channel.
  8. The other safety trip that can cause the system to cut the gas off to the valve is the high limit switch.  If the furnace runs for a few minutes, then shuts off, something could be causing the inside of the furnace to get too hot. The first thing I would check is to see is if the evaporator coil is dirty.   I have a great video that shows what a dirty evaporator coil looks like and what it takes to clean it.
  9. The other reason the high limit could open is the blower motor speed could be set too low.  Check your installation guide as a reference for where the settings should be.
  10. Check the ductwork too.  These last three have all dealt with airflow.  If the return duct is crushed, then we’ll have low airflow again.  Visually check the return duct and feel around it if it looks questionable.  If the duct is not perfectly round, then this could be the problem. The furnace is suffocating.

What else should folks check when troubleshooting a furnace gas valve?  Leave me a comment down below to share your expertise.

When you’re installing the new gas valve, there are few things to keep in mind. It’s a like-for-like change out, but gas leaks are a serious issue, so make sure to use some pipe dope or pipe tape to seal the fitting. 

Also, don’t bend the manifold when you’re trying to remove the gas valve or put the new one back on.  Use two wrenches to get a proper hold on the manifold and the gas valve.

I strongly recommend not over-tightening the gas valve to the manifold.  You could bend the manifold, but also remember, someone might have to get that thing off someday, and you’d be creating a challenging situation for a tech that has to come out and service it in a few months.  Some guys get a little over the top and really crank down on it.  Not necessary. 

Check for gas leaks with an electronic gas sniffer or soap bubbles.  This will assure you the fittings are snug and leak-free.  And don’t forget to check the outlet side when the gas valve is on.  It doesn’t help when the valve is off because no gas is flowing through it.

If it’s a natural gas set-up, the spring that comes inside the valve will already be the right one.  If you’re using LP gas, you’ll need to make sure you put the right spring in it. It’ll come in the box.  Check the manifold orifices to ensure they are the right ones for LP too. And put the sticker on the gas valve that says LP.  This will help future HVAC technicians when they service the furnace.

And lastly, check the gas pressure on the new valve after you’ve replaced it.  I can’t say it enough. It’s simple to do with the right tools, don’t just change the valve and not check the pressures.

When it comes to troubleshooting a furnace gas valve, there’s also a setting for low fire on two-stage units that needs to be checked.

If the gas pressure is too low, your furnace’s efficiency will go down.  More condensation than usual will build up because the air in the air-fuel mixture will be too high.  The condensation can cause corrosion, possibly creating the need for a heat exchanger replacement in the future.

High gas pressure can be just as bad for your furnace because it dramatically increases the furnace’s overheating risk. When this happens, high limit switches will start opening, causing intermittent operation.  It can also crack your heat exchanger since it’s only rated to handle a certain amount of heat.  And cracked heat exchangers can introduce the spent gasses inside the heat exchanger to be carried along with the heat blowing into the house.

So, to recap.  When a furnace begins a new cycle, the inducer motor is the first thing you should see kick on. A safety device called a pressure switch activates when the diaphragm inside it recognizes the suction or purging action of the inducer motor.   Next, the three parts of the ignition sequence begin.  The ignitor kicks on, the gas valve opens, and the flame sensor senses that the flame exists.  If this all goes well, you have heat blowing into the house about a minute later when the blower kicks on.

What else should folks check when troubleshooting a furnace gas valve?  Leave me a comment down below to share your expertise. Thanks so much for stopping by, and we’ll see you at the next blog post.

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